Some machines used stub form, others straight 22DP. My coolant pump was also rotted away to powder almost completely.īTW those end gears on my UK HLV are straight 22DP and standard Hardinge fair (I got a factory drawing for them). DoozerAll very good points made, and if they have used water based coolant it's likely that you'll have rusted gears in the apron and possibly rotted-out feed clutch bearings. Either way it sounds like a close inspection of those points is a good idea. Or is well read about some production issues that occur.
#Apron oil for hardinge hlv h lathe full
But if the bed and cross slide ways look really good with no etched in evidence of any damage then I would expect the underside of carriage and cross slide would be similarly fine.Īnd if you have not already planned on it I would certainly suggest a full tear down and re-assembly with a close inspection of all parts and connections.įrom his descriptions Doozer sounds like he's had a couple or more of the old Hardinge machines apart. Granted some coolant related damage MIGHT be hidden in the under side of the carriage and cross slide. But I'd expect that any damage to the ways should be pretty obvious right off the bat just by looking at the bed and exposed cross slide ways. DoozerCertainly something to look into and examine during a rather full tear down in your effort to fully evaluate what you have. Save money or make an electronic lead screw. Gears are stub profile.Ĭonsider using non-Hardinge gears if you are going to get into custom ratios to You must build the complete ratio with the change gears. Ratios are not compounded by the Norton box. They areĭesigned to slip against the bed hard stop. Lines in the spindle where the collet splits usually are. Look for a spun tailstock taper and look for 3 wear If you are lucky, is has not begin to de-laminate. There are 4 Bijur metering units under a cover and a manifold behind the carriage. If the previous owners ran water based coolant, the dovetail ways will be toasted.